Build Your Own Animation Workstation

Want to get started creating animation on your own computer? John Edgar Park tells you how to start from scratch. Let's find out how to select and assemble the correct components and then get them working!
Posted In | Magazines: AnimationWorld, VFXWorld

So you've decided to take the plunge and build an animation workstation. Here's my advice: Don't do it! Run for your life!! Save yourself while you still can!!! Go on without me . . .

Are they gone now? Good. Okay, now that the sensible people have left, it's just us lunatics. While they're off buying boring, old pre-built computers – what with all their warranties and tech support – you and I are gonna throw caution into the wind and make ours from scratch. We'll buy a bunch of shiny computer parts, throw 'em into a box, shake it around a little and blam!, we'll have home-brewed a monster animation rig.

Let's clarify some things first. There aren't too many folks building their own Macs and SGIs. So what I'm talking about here is a Windows or Linux box. Now, Linux is fun to say, but I honestly know next to nothing about it, what I'm really talking about is an Intel or AMD based Windows box.

Second clarification. What's an animation workstation? Well, garden-variety PCs are general purpose computers. When you put high-end parts in them that are geared toward a specific task, those PCs get the much cooler-sounding moniker: "workstation." In our case, that specific task set is animation – 3D, 2D, compositing and a little video editing.

Building the animation workstation is a multi-phase process:
1. Select components
2. Assemble them
3. Install an operating system
4. Install software.

Selecting Components
Animation workstations generally have state-of-the-art components compared to the basic family PC. (Although a PC built for 3D gaming will share many traits of a good workstation.) Few tasks tax a machine quite like hardcore 3D graphics and video editing do. All of the subsystems, such as storage, data transfer, CPU, RAM and graphics, work very, very hard to keep the beautiful pictures looking good and moving fast on-screen.

Here is a roundup of the parts you'll need to select. I'll even throw in some highly subjective opinions on specific parts. This is sure to spawn many angry emails, and be out-dated within minutes of press time, but what the heck.

Both the InWin Q500 (l) and the Coolermaster's ATC-210 cases will house your wares efficiently and with style.

Case
The enclosure is what you'll put all this other stuff into, so you might as well make it a good one. If you're like me, you'll end up upgrading your workstation, instead of buying a whole new computer every few years. The case is the one part you may never need to replace, because it's just the guts that will change.

Get a mid- to full-sized ATX tower. You want lots of room to root around in, and you may need the extra drive bays someday. Spend the extra money for a quality case, too. The cheap ones don't have rolled edges on their internal, stamped metal parts. This can make for some awful lacerations. I learned that the hard way. Bleeding all over a $250 CPU is a bad thing.

Most cases come with a power supply, but you want to make sure that it's rated high enough to provide power to all of your internal components. A 350 -to- 450 watt, P4 ready or Athlon rated power supply is a necessary investment. Underpowering your system can be harmful. I use the Silencer 400 ATX from PC Power & Cooling. Other good brands are Enermax and Antec.













Comments


I wanted to know if a dual processor motherboard would be better than the one you mentioned? I have a Brand New Alton Dual Socket 370 266-1.13GHz Mainboard w/Sound, Supports Dual Pentium III Processors Up to 1.13GHz or One Celron to 1GHz Would this be a good system? Thanks amadorl
Amador Lopez (not verified) | Fri, 03/15/2002 - 01:00 | Permalink
Cool article, and very informative. I, however still do 2D work and for that I use a stone stock Amiga 1200 (firing off at a scremin' 14.2 MHz with 2 Mb of RAM) running Deluxe Paint 4. Why, you may ask, is someone using such an antique system? Because it still works, and outputs to video automatically. And the OS is rock sturdy. This allows me to put all my elements onto whatever format tape I have, insert audio and then edit either linearally or non-linearally. But to each his own. Like I said, cool article and very informative. keep more of them coming, like maybe software choices and such like that.
Collin MacDonald (not verified) | Wed, 03/13/2002 - 01:00 | Permalink
Where do you plug in the pencil and paper?
Karl Koeller (not verified) | Wed, 03/13/2002 - 01:00 | Permalink
Good article. But I have to disagree with your recommendation of the Oxygen GVX-1. Although the card may seem a good choice for a mid range board, It's the worst piece of crap I EVER bought. The driver implementation stinks, It can not display DivX/Mpeg4/DVDs at a resolution higher than 1024 at 70hz without flickering (making the video unwatchable). The 3dlabs tech support is a farce. You can NOT use the card for gaming (not even a little Q3 afterhours), because it will crash on any occasion. The onboard coolers will start failing about a year after you bought the card. (newer boards may have passive coolers though) So all in all 3dlabs products stink (exept the wildcat series, which wasnt developed by them anyway) Just my 0.02$ Vincent Filter
Vincent Filter (not verified) | Sat, 03/09/2002 - 01:00 | Permalink

Post new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.
  • Web page addresses and e-mail addresses turn into links automatically.
  • Allowed HTML tags: <a> <em> <strong> <cite> <code> <ul> <ol> <li> <dl> <dt> <dd>
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.
  • Use <!--pagebreak--> to create page breaks.

More information about formatting options

CAPTCHA
This question is for testing whether you are a human visitor and to prevent automated spam submissions.